Friday, April 14, 2023

Port Dundas 28, Glenglassaugh 9, Fukano, Linkwood 11, CB Juveniles, … A “Welcome Back” Blend

Welcome back! Some things changed, most things stayed the same. Plenty of bottles finally emptied out, some bottles have been opened, and life as we know goes on. The first few reviews are going to be a mix of thoughts as a catch up and go through several miscellaneous samples that are hard to put into any specific group.

Port Dundas 28, Single Grain Scotch, Sovereign, 51.3%
A 1990 Port Dundas grain, bottled by Sovereign. I have a bottle of this and got some hopes for it, though the quality of casks seems to be inconsistent. The nose starts gentle and vanilla-forward, but then picks up momentum into light tropical fruit direction with mangos and pineapple notes that are topped with grapefruit or blood orange zest. Let’s be honest, it smells like mango and blood orange custard pie, complete with spiced graham crust. The palate is (white) tropical fruit punch that’s been spiced with some peppers. Lots more spicines on the aftertaste but it doesn’t become sichuan hot, instead it fades into warm and sweet vanilla that lingers for a while. Overall: This is a spiced light tropical creme pie, and there’s nothing particularly wrong with it, though I wish it had a bit more oily character to leave a presence. As it is, it’s vibrant, sweet and fresh but not memorable enough to wistfully recall few years down the road later. Value: That was $80 in ‘ages’ ago, in 2019. A solid price that doesn’t exist anymore.
Store Page: https://www.klwines.com/p/i?i=1380526
Score: B

Glenglassaugh 9, Wine Hogshead, @SFWBSS SP Cask #2148, 57.1%
A bottled in 2022 as a SF group pick… At 9 years old and aged in a (Red) Wine cask. I’m not fully opposed to the distillery, but I’ve not found their product amazing. Of course this is the SF group pick… and in the spirit of getting single malts they put out… I’ve dipped my toes into this one too. The color is light-chestnut with a pink tinge to it. The nose is… well it’s proofy and young with addition of coat of red wine frosting all around bringing overabundance of dried red fruit notes. The palate is very sweet, and mostly filled with rich red dried fruit flavors and alcohol. Candied cherries and some plums dominate. The aftertaste is medium-length at best, slightly spicy but nothing of note happens there. Little bit of a water helps with the alcohol avalanche and lets the dessert wine notes forward. Overall: “It’s a fruit cake (pie)!” I keep on saying to myself. There’s nothing that pushes it above ‘drinkable dessert pour’. Enjoyable and situational but certainly not an everyday drinker. I’ll be quite interested in their product as the stocks gain few more years under their belt. Value: Eeeeeh, Glenglassaugh single casks go for around $99 and so it was the case here. I’ll argue this is about average price for what we got, including a fancy box.
Score: B-

Fukano “Amabie” SCWC/K&L SP Manzanilla Sherry #MS326, 42.2%
This single cask aged in sherry butt is distilled from rice and has no age statement. As an aside, manzanilla sherry is a lighter-textured, funky and spicy sherry, quite unlike Oloroso and PX which tend to be thicker and sweeter. The nose is sherry forward and is rather enjoyable with rice alcohol adding another layer to the ‘funk’ of the overall bouquet. The palate is pleasantly filled with spiced candied nuts and sweet rice undertones. Aside from rice sweetness notes, it’s got gently notes of nutmeg, cloves and some anice. Aftertaste is yet again slightly nutty and is rather spicy; quickly falling down into gentle pepperiness. Overall: This is a mix of very good sake flavors with an excellent sherry note. There’s very little cask influence beyond sherry and rice doesn’t bring anything groundbreaking or complex to the table. Perhaps there’s something to be said about this being ‘good’ because of its ’simplicity’ and lack of nuance. Just like sushi, there’s nowhere to hide here. This is equivalent to a piece of nigiri that’s got two components where typical complexity of scotch is a paella of flavors. I can tell it’s a ‘good quality’ product, because anything other than good would have been a disaster. Do I enjoy it? Yes I do… Is it anything like other japanese (malt) whiskeys? No, it’s an excellent soju/sake with sherry flavors that is a whiskey only by definition. Value: At $100 I’ve paid, and no age statement, this is probably a little over expensive, at $74 on sale… that’s about the right price.
https://www.klwines.com/p/i?i=1595455
Score: B (maybe)

Linkwood 11, Signatory, K&L SP, Charred Wine Hogshead, 59.2%
A Linkwood distilled in 2010. I’m a fan of Linkwood. Rather dark colored, but this is a *recharred* wine hogshead. The nose is proofy, with wine funkiness, toasted honey and red fruits. Palate is yet again very proofy, toasted honey, red fruits, wine tannins. The aftertaste is warming, generously peppered, lingers for long time with more red fruits and a touch of toasted sugar. With water it sorta falls apart with too much wine influence overtaking everything. Overall: I really want to like it but I cannot love it. It’s wild and proofy and decent at full proof, even if full proof is very punchy. Definitely a weird and a wild one, this will be my adventurous dessert pour as it’s certainly not a casual one. It does provide an interesting counterpoint to Glenglassaugh above it. With this one being more cask forward and Glenglassaugh being more spirit forward. Value: At $89… This was decent value for cask strength 11 year old malt…
https://www.klwines.com/p/i?i=1569866
Score: C+

Compass Box Juveniles Limited Edition, 46%
Another Compass Box bottling… John Glaser of CB is a savant in blending, to be fair. This bottle got a BELL in the punt! Unpeated malt, mostly from Clynelish and Balmenach distilleries with Strathmill the mix and a few others. The nose is extremely malty, almost overwhelmingly so. The palate is citrusy creme soda or light honey mead with a touch of alcohol, light honey wax, gentle spices. Quite thick, sweet and mouth-coating, lots of malt yet again. The aftertaste is long, delicately spiced and lingering. Overall: This is really bloody good pour. Thought this is much thicker and creamier on the palate that most ex-bourbon unpeated malts. Value: IIRC this was priced ~$100 in Costco… It’s a solid deal for a limited Compass Box bottling. I would struggle to pay more for a relatively non-premium release.
Read technical details here
Score: B+


Scoring Breakdown: https://www.aerin.or … age=scores_breakdown